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Suspension & Handling - Introduction
(Photo in MG Enthusiast April 2006) Introduction Firstly, let's keep some perspective and remember the suspension set-up is quite dated by today's benchmarks, in fact, even by the benchmarks of the time. Although the MGB was planned to have IRS, cost cutting meant it never happened, and so it inherited a tried and trusted design with solid rear axle with leaf springs at the rear and wishbone with coil springs at the front, using lever arm dampers all round. Anti-roll bars at the front were optional on early cars and later (1966) standard, whilst rear anti-roll bars were usually offered as an aftermarket fit on c/b cars. With the increase in ride height on r/b cars, however, rear anti-roll bars became standard fit from 1976 on. There are many aftermarket improvement options available on the market ranging from low to very high cost, in excess of several thousand pounds. As with engine upgrades, the question must be asked what is it that you want to achieve from the car, because there comes a point where you may as well buy a modern sports car. Perhaps the best advice, as strange as it may seem, is to get the car back to standard, or factory fresh. Certainly a few small upgrades such as poly bushes may not go amiss at this stage, but staying with the existing set-up, making sure the dampers, springs and tyres are all new will give a vastly superior ride to what you may currently be experiencing owing to wear & tear. Switching directly to upgrades at this point will only highlight how much the current set-up might be worn, so any benchmarks are meaningless. Phil has followed this route in getting the car back to standard and then taking each improvement a step at a time, although it does mean spending time in the garage changing out components. The fact is, Phil has created an exceptionally well-balanced car (see photo above), and one that is comparable every time I drive his versus my own. Part of the balance comes from having the power to balance the car courtesy of the supercharger, but more so, because of the careful selection and matching of the components to suit. There is a trade-off though, the ride is much harder. However, if you can live with this then the car delights in being able to easily maintain a rapid progress through challenging curves, often eclipsing modern sporting cars. The r/b cars were often slighted for having poor handling, which may have been true of the early 74-76 cars owing to a lack of rear anti-roll bar, but frankly, a properly sorted 1977> car is comparable to a well sorted c/b car in the opinion of Roger Parker. But the reputation has unfortunately stuck. It should be remembered that in the case of the r/b cars, not only did they gain 1.5" (35mm) in ride height to comply with US laws, but they also gained large bumpers capable of withstanding a 5mph impact. The design of these increased the mass at each end with the bumpers weighing approximately 20kgs each at the extremities which must surely have upset the balance over the c/b cars. The fact is, a B can be extremely entertaining and yet retain much of the standard set-up, and a level of improvement can be attained at relatively low cost. However, the B is very communicative, and the limit on a standard car is easily found and safely controlled. Any improvements will allow the limit to be extended, but remember, the car will be going faster when the limit is found and therefore harder to control, and it can only end in tears. Speaking of which, any modifications should be noted with the insurers. So if you are after a safe, yet entertaining ride at a more pedestrian pace, then make sure that you maintain the suspension in good condition if only for the benefit of comfort and safety. If you are looking for a little more, then hopefully some of the page links will help you achieve your end goal. Beyond that, the limitations will most definitely be your budget, but IRS is not impossible.
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