Fitting EDIS to a later rubber bumper B/BGT

Location of the Trigger Wheel

Location of the Coil Pack

TPS Throttle Position Sensor

EDIS Module Location

Summary

Whilst the MGB was around a long time, there are some very notable differences between the early cars and the last of the production.  This does not affect the basic principle of fitment as described by Matthew Kimmins, but it does mean that there will be a few considerations that actually make fitment a little easier in the 1976> cars compared to the story on the 1965 Roadster.

Location of the Trigger Wheel:

As the clearance is greater between the crank pulley and steering rack/radiator, fitting the trigger wheel is relatively easy compared to a pre-76 car as the radiator can remain in-situ.  However, you will need to fabricate a bracket to hold the VR sensor, but unlike the Roadster version, it is possible to mount the VR sensor on the left side of the engine utilising the engine mount bolts on the engine front plate.  As the most likely positioning of the EDIS Module will be on the left of the car in or under the glove box, this is ideal for minimising the cable run from the VR sensor.

Alternatively, as shown below on Garry Firth's r/b BGT, the sensor could be mounted as per the way Matthew Kimmins describes:

Ensure that the VR sensor sits within 1mm of the trigger wheel when fitted.  This will require a precise fit of the trigger wheel to the crank pulley.  If you have used the template supplied to cut your own trigger wheel, then it is a fairly straight forward job to position the trigger wheel concentrically on the pulley.  After cleaning both surfaces so they are free of rust, paint and oil, you should then drill and tap two holes after marking up.  We used a couple of computer bolts.  However, prior to fitting and tightening them we used a metal epoxy adhesive.  The result was a very fit with minimal run-out, insufficient to cause any errors in the readings or the risk of grounding on the VR sensor face.  

It is essential the trigger wheel is affixed to the inner part of the pulley, not the outer, as the outer may slip on the rubber damper and put the timing out.

26/01/2006 - Trigger-wheels.com can supply varying diametre pulleys with the 36--1 configuration and are able to offer a specific A-series pulley.  

Once this is completed, ensure you fit a new lock-tab and remember to set the lock tab (as I didn't!).

Location of the Coil Pack:

Given the fact that the 1977> cars have an inline servo making access more difficult along with more components on the right inner wing, it made sense to utilise the shelf on the left side of the heater.  Whilst I have modified mine to have an earlier style water bottle here rather than the bag on the inner wing, there is still sufficient space for the coil pack.  More importantly, this minimises wire runs again to keep interference to a minimum.  Although, access is a bit tricky on the rear screws.  However, this location does mean that the high tension spark plug leads will need to run further and the standard Ford leads will probably not be long enough, requiring the need for aftermarket leads that can be bought in various lengths.  However, new leads should be on the shopping list anyway.  As it is not possible to determine the firing order from the rotation of the distributor, I used lead number markers to indicate plug numbers, and I have marked the coil pack accordingly.  The markers and spacers are part of the silicone lead sets available at Halfords (approximately £40 for the leads and markers).

I used 3" long self-tappers, but, I cut 1" lengths of fuel pipe I had spare to help ensure the coil pack sat up off the metalwork, and to minimise vibration.  Later, holes will be necessary next to the coil pack to feed the various wires through into the module in the car.

Another way, again on Garry Firth's car, would be to mount the coil pack over the original unit on a cradle to minimise drilling holes as shown below, and this would shorten the required lead length:

TPS Throttle Position Sensor:

Whilst the article on the 1965 Roadster describes fitment to the Weber carburettor, mine runs a standard (well almost, if you ignore the HS style throttle discs, AAA needles and K&N filters) HIF twin carburettor arrangement.  Again, to minimise wire runs, the ideal location for the TPS is off the rear carburettor throttle spindle.  In order to protect the Maplin's sourced £1 potentiometer, I located this inside a 35mm film canister before affixing to the bracket.  I offset the hole in the canister to prevent the pot from turning.  The bracket is mounted off the bolt on the manifold as shown in the photo, and it is a standard radio strap supplied in Halfords, but it will need a hole enlarging to take the TPS.  

I am not happy with this arrangement as there is too much flex, and at the minute I use a rubber sleeve between the TPS and throttle spindle which is probably not ideal.  A better arrangement would be to cut a slot into both spindles and use a key with a rubber sleeve to ensure the key does not fall out.  In addition, the HIF body has a blind hole just below which may yet prove ideal for tapping and thus providing a secure mounting for a short bracket that will not flex.  The potentiometer shaft will need cutting down to the appropriate length, and at the price I would suggest buying a handful of these in case they get damaged in the installation.  I shall also investigate the use of a TPS off a modern inlet system.

A better way would be as Garry has done shown below with a piece of aluminium tube and grub screws, as shown below, with the bracket mounted off the rear stud of the carburettor:

EDIS Module Location:

At this stage, although I have very little in the glove box, I chose to mount my unit under the dash where it is visible.  Partly, I suspect, the idea of a visible red LEDs was a factor!  However, although the mounting is temporary with cable ties for now, it is easy enough to properly mount the box under the dash with secure screws or bolts.  Bear in mind that you will need to plug the laptop in and then if you are out on the road fine tuning the co-pilot will need to have enough cable length.  In my case, I have a new laptop with no serial port, so I am using a USB2.0-RS232 adapter with about 50cm of lead.  The adaptors can be bought from Maplins for £20, although I have since discovered they are much cheaper at £10 from computer fairs.  As the EDIS module box had lugs, I had to cut the lugs off the adaptor I bought to get it to fit snugly.  the lugs are riveted to the adaptor 232 plate and cannot be unscrewed.

Jobs still to do:

• Reconnect tacho. (10th March 2006 - Matthew recently supplied a module to fit in line with the tacho which has allowed the unit to operate again - a simple upgrade but owing to the 5V output from the EDIS and the 10-12V required by the tacho, an amplifier was necessary.)

• Fit Shift-light LED,

• Get on a rolling road and get the mapping ideally set-up.

The car runs on Shell Optimax, and I have to say that the guess-map has so far proven to be fantastic, although the odd backfire can be induced at low revs when planting the right foot.  However, it is seldom that I am below 2000rpm, just something I need to remember around town when one tends to take advantage of the B's wonderful low down torque!

Summary:

Starting is easier, idling is smooth during warm-up, and it will easily rev to 6000rpm.  I have seen 50mph in second gear, it is that free revving.  Obviously a standard engine will not see 6000rpm as easily, I have a balanced 1860cc engine, Stage 2 head and 714 camshaft which helps, but the earlier problems of erratic points is now consigned to history.

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